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Feeding is not a necessary if you keep yours CP at open air place, like garden or beside of window. But, if you feed them, they definitely will grow bigger and nicer. We can feed any small insect to CP, like ant, fly, cockroach… But, all CP prefer “juicy food”, they will say yummy!!!!! 😉

We can feed CP every week or once every 2 week. Each time, just feed 1 or 2 leaf/trap. Personally, I prefer to use frozen blood worm, because, it is juicy, and I can have it any time.

What I did is, I will de-froze blood worm, and will feed 1 ~ 2 pieces of blood worm to each drosera, and a small bunch of blood worm to VFT and nepenthes.

When feeding VFT, make sure the food is inside the trap. Else, the trap may turn black (as I read from somewhere). Beside that, I also will press the trap to make sure the trap close tightly.

I normally will feed my CP on sunny day, to avoid the food flash out by rain.

Nowadays, I’m really lazy to feed my CP. And most of time, I didn’t do so, because my CPs are located at my garden that have a lots of insect and fly. However, I still fertilizing them with orchids or planted tank fertilizer when I’m free. 🙂

Please see the comment from Andreas, it is very informative as well!!!

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Growing carnivorous plants in a pot by its own is not nice, can you imagine yours lovely CP growing on top of chocklat, yellowish and blackish death spagnum moss? Somemore, after sometime, it will melt and become clay look blackish stuff? Yucky!!!

How about we have a pot of CP with a green carpet, and some others non-CP, it sound nice, right?

 1 of famous plant are – live spagnum moss (will explore it next time). On top of live spagnum moss, I also grow a common Eriocaulon sp. that can be found at local river side at CP pot. The plant need a lots of sunlight and water to grow nicely. So, it is suitable side by side with sarracenia, venus fly trap and drosera. I havent try the Eriocaulon sp.  with nepenthes yet. Must try that later… Eriocaulon sp. will produce attena looks flower, and it can be collected and plantlet will grow from there!!!!

Cheerrsss…

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Just wanna share with you all how I planting my CPs…

Because I found that many CPer didnt use any accessory when planting their CPs. And it is not a easy task, especially repoting plantlet, or DroseraPinguicula and VFT.  With tweezer, we can get the task done easily. Tweezer that im using cost me rm1.50 only

Tweezer

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3 – Make a hole in a new pot

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6 – Push the media to cover the hole

Done…

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Drosera will doing better if we protected them from rain. But, it is costly, and troublesome to build a wood or metal cover for them. It will be “NO” for stingy person, especially me (always calculate here and there).

IMG_1513With suitable size of square container (im using transparent disposable plastic food containers) and transparent A4 paper, we can build 1 easily. Make a hole at side of container for water overflow purpose. Distance of the overflow hole from bottom of container is 2cm. Fill in the container with wet spagnum moss. Then, plant yours CP in the spagnum moss.

 

 

 Cut the tranparent A4 paper to shape as shownuntitled

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slip the two shorter sides of the cut tranparent A4 paper into the planted container.

Final product. Cheeers…Copy of IMG_2192Copy of IMG_2194

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On June 2009. Petpitcher forum had decided to organize a carnivorous plants competition and Im lucky have few pots nice CP that able join the competition. Taking nice photo of plant is not a easy job. I and my friend take 5hours+ only manage capture few pots photo. And he is rushing back, because it is 2am!!! Yea, we start it from 7pm till 2am. And haven’t done yet…

As award, im luck and win the “Certificate of Cultural Excellence” (1st prize) at sarracenia category and “Certificate of Cultural Merit” (2nd prize) at VFT category.

S. leucophylla hybrid

Judges comment
– A nicely grown plant, but the correct idnetity should be determined if possible.
– Really nice leuco hybrid with great colouration and vigorous, healthy pitchers. Probably of complete parentage, but very nice plant. Love the ruggled edge to the lid! Growing this plant in direct, strong sunlight with no shading at all will encourage it to produce even more vigorous and brightly coloured pitchers!
 
S. leucophylla hybrid1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

S. leucophylla hybrid3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

S. leucophylla hybrid2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dionaea muscipula “red dragon”

Judges comment :
– A nicely grown and presented plant.  Dionaea muscipula red dragon1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dionaea muscipula red dragon2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dionaea muscipula red dragon3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D. Lake Badgerup

Judges comment:
– Once again, the plants look quite nice, but the presentation is not so good. A sandy mix that fills the pot is required to make these drosera look good.

D. Lake Badgerup1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D. Lake Badgerup2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D. Lake Badgerup3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://forum.petpitcher.com/forumdisplay.php?f=217

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Water tray method

IMG_1700“Water tray method” means putting the pot on top of a tray that has some water in it. The main reason is to keep the media wet, which is what most CPs need. This method is recommended by most CP related books. With this method, we don’t need to water the CP daily. What we need to do is to make sure the water tray have some level of water.

Most of CP can be grown nicely in water tray. In my case, I grow sarracenia, drosera, VFT, cephalotus and nepenthes at my house. So far, I keep them using the Water Tray method, except for cephalotus and nepenthes; I try don’t let the media be waterlogged or too moist all the time for cephalotus and VFTs.

With the water tray, water from the tray and pot will evaporate, increasing the humidity around CP. The higher humidity around the tray is suitable for most CPs.

You can use whatever container as a water tray. If you have just a few pots, it is easy to find small containers. But, once you have 100++ pots, you will have to use bigger trays. What I using now are those yellow trays that are normally used by bakers to keep bread and cakes. It is same as those you see used by cake sellers in night markets. Each tray cost me RM14+-. You can find it at most plastic or kitchen accessory shops. What I found is, this type of tray is last longer then the others reddish tray that I am using. The yellow tray can last for 2 years + and it will not break if compare with reddish tray that will last for 1 year only.

Sarracenias, droseras and VFTs need different water levels. Sarracenias need the most water, followed by droseras and VFTs. So, possible, keep the water level for sarracenias  half way up the pot. At my house, I kept the pot standing in 1.5~2inches of water. For droseras and VFTs, I grow them in 1~2cm of water.

Many people said VFTs prefer dry media in between a regular watering routine. But, if I follow that, I definitely will kill some of them, since my house area is really hot and the media will dry very fast and I may will forget to water them sometimes. So, I keep my VFT sitting in water as well and so far, they are doing fine. A few plants have been with me for 2 – 3 years. My VFT that won the 2nd prize at CP photo competition organized by PetPitcher is growing well with that method.

Sometimes, I find that it is difficult to specially create a higher water level tray just for sarracenias. So, I keep a few pots of sarracenia at water levels of 1 or 2 cm as well. This is working fine and doesn’t give me any negative results.

 

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As you know, it is recommend to do water change once a week. If you have mosquito larvae problem, water change twice a week is a must. But, it is troublesome and time consuming if you have few water tray that filled with 20pots CPs in each.

What you can do to suit yours lazyness is…
1. go to hardware shop, buy a plastic cork (normally is reddish pink color).
2. buy a drill head (for cement use) that well fit the plastic cork.
3. drill a hole at buttom of yours water tray. Get the plastic cork to “close” the hole. Refill water to the tray and test it. If no leaking, means, it is done.

I did the below twice a week.
1. at night, I take out the cork and lets ALL water flow out from the tray.
2. Next morning, close the hole with cork and refill water.

Reason:-
1. water change to remove possible mineral that forming in water
2. kill/remove mosquito larvae from water tray

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