Archive for October, 2009

Drosera will doing better if we protected them from rain. But, it is costly, and troublesome to build a wood or metal cover for them. It will be “NO” for stingy person, especially me (always calculate here and there).

IMG_1513With suitable size of square container (im using transparent disposable plastic food containers) and transparent A4 paper, we can build 1 easily. Make a hole at side of container for water overflow purpose. Distance of the overflow hole from bottom of container is 2cm. Fill in the container with wet spagnum moss. Then, plant yours CP in the spagnum moss.



 Cut the tranparent A4 paper to shape as shownuntitled








Slip the two shorter sides of the cut tranparent A4 paper into the planted container.

Final product. Cheeers…Copy of IMG_2192Copy of IMG_2194

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To grow sarracenia is not difficult as many people thought. We just need to provide them a lots of sunlight, and give them water tray. Keep the water level for sarracenias  half way up the pot. Then, the plant will doing fine without any problem until they go for dormancy.

Beside S. stevensii that I posted previous, here are some others sarracenia that I have. Tallest sarracenia that I have at the moment is 20inches +.

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Some drosera sp. can propagate using leaf cutting. Beside laying them flat on top of media, some of them also can propagate using water method. On January 2009, I try it with D. paradoxa, D. intermedia ‘cuba’, D. spatulatha and D. binata var extreme leaf. The container will put in shaded place and will do water change if it is diry.











After 2~3 weeks, Drosera that produce plantlet is,
D. intermedia ‘cuba’ –> all leaf produce plantlet, each leaf have 1 ~ 3 plantlet
D. binata –> 1 out of 2 leaf produce plantlet, each leaf have 4 plantlet
D. paradoxa –> I have 2 leaf in water and 1 produce plantlet
D. spatulatha –> no plantlet produce

intermedia%20using%20waterD. intermedia ‘cuba’ plantlet










paradoxa%20using%20waterD. paradoxa plantlet



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20090525_A Many people failed propagate petiolaris complex drosera. Honors talking, I also failed initially until I got some tips from expert to propagate the most common petiolaris complex drosera – D. paradoxa. I try to explain it with my lousy English. Hope you all understand that. 

Take out the mother plant from media. When pulling, try to tearing at least 3 or 4 leaves at a time; make sure pulling direction is towards mother root direction. You’ll have much better results tearing one paradoxa plant into many larger clumps of leaves instead of pulling off individual ones, and percentage of each leaf have “white part” will higher. 

Prepare a spagnum moss at a taufufa container or any transparent container that have cover. Make sure the media is really wet until you can see some water at surface of media. Laying flat those leaf at the media and make sure both end of leaf is touches water especially the base of the leaf where the white part is. Cover the container tightly. place it at bright place. You will get plantlet in 2 weeks time or longer. For those half dry leaves don’t waste it. Sometime, you may get plantlet as well.







This is how I hold the mother plant and will tear leaves at right hand side.









Clump of leaves that tear off from mother plant.








It is how mother plant look like after tear off the clump.









Poor D. paradoxa.








It is how I arrangement my leaf and it will become D. paradoxa plantlet camber soon.








End result of the above. (There are some paradoxa that not at the photo and some of them sold out as well)

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On June 2009. Petpitcher forum had decided to organize a carnivorous plants competition and Im lucky have few pots nice CP that able join the competition. Taking nice photo of plant is not a easy job. I and my friend take 5hours+ only manage capture few pots photo. And he is rushing back, because it is 2am!!! Yea, we start it from 7pm till 2am. And haven’t done yet…

As award, im luck and win the “Certificate of Cultural Excellence” (1st prize) at sarracenia category and “Certificate of Cultural Merit” (2nd prize) at VFT category.

S. leucophylla hybrid

Judges comment
– A nicely grown plant, but the correct idnetity should be determined if possible.
– Really nice leuco hybrid with great colouration and vigorous, healthy pitchers. Probably of complete parentage, but very nice plant. Love the ruggled edge to the lid! Growing this plant in direct, strong sunlight with no shading at all will encourage it to produce even more vigorous and brightly coloured pitchers!
S. leucophylla hybrid1












S. leucophylla hybrid3









S. leucophylla hybrid2




















Dionaea muscipula “red dragon”

Judges comment :
– A nicely grown and presented plant.  Dionaea muscipula red dragon1









Dionaea muscipula red dragon2












Dionaea muscipula red dragon3





















D. Lake Badgerup

Judges comment:
– Once again, the plants look quite nice, but the presentation is not so good. A sandy mix that fills the pot is required to make these drosera look good.

D. Lake Badgerup1









D. Lake Badgerup2











D. Lake Badgerup3









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The plant is with me since 2 years++. Untill now, it still is the most nicer sarracenia that I have.

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Water tray method

IMG_1700“Water tray method” means putting the pot on top of a tray that has some water in it. The main reason is to keep the media wet, which is what most CPs need. This method is recommended by most CP related books. With this method, we don’t need to water the CP daily. What we need to do is to make sure the water tray have some level of water.

Most of CP can be grown nicely in water tray. In my case, I grow sarracenia, drosera, VFT, cephalotus and nepenthes at my house. So far, I keep them using the Water Tray method, except for cephalotus and nepenthes; I try don’t let the media be waterlogged or too moist all the time for cephalotus and VFTs.

With the water tray, water from the tray and pot will evaporate, increasing the humidity around CP. The higher humidity around the tray is suitable for most CPs.

You can use whatever container as a water tray. If you have just a few pots, it is easy to find small containers. But, once you have 100++ pots, you will have to use bigger trays. What I using now are those yellow trays that are normally used by bakers to keep bread and cakes. It is same as those you see used by cake sellers in night markets. Each tray cost me RM14+-. You can find it at most plastic or kitchen accessory shops. What I found is, this type of tray is last longer then the others reddish tray that I am using. The yellow tray can last for 2 years + and it will not break if compare with reddish tray that will last for 1 year only.

Sarracenias, droseras and VFTs need different water levels. Sarracenias need the most water, followed by droseras and VFTs. So, possible, keep the water level for sarracenias  half way up the pot. At my house, I kept the pot standing in 1.5~2inches of water. For droseras and VFTs, I grow them in 1~2cm of water.

Many people said VFTs prefer dry media in between a regular watering routine. But, if I follow that, I definitely will kill some of them, since my house area is really hot and the media will dry very fast and I may will forget to water them sometimes. So, I keep my VFT sitting in water as well and so far, they are doing fine. A few plants have been with me for 2 – 3 years. My VFT that won the 2nd prize at CP photo competition organized by PetPitcher is growing well with that method.

Sometimes, I find that it is difficult to specially create a higher water level tray just for sarracenias. So, I keep a few pots of sarracenia at water levels of 1 or 2 cm as well. This is working fine and doesn’t give me any negative results.


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